The support rider this time is Makise-san, a cyclist living in Kagoshima. As the representative of "Papicross," he is a professional cycling tourism expert who coordinates cycling-related photo shoots and cycling events. We were very relieved to hear that he is an expert on cycling roads not only in Kagoshima but also in all of Kyushu. The second day of Kin-ichi started off on a high note!

The steam rising from the natural sand-mushi (sand steaming) area overlooking the morning sun rising from the coastline was so traveler-friendly that we stopped at "Sunamushi Kaikan" without a second thought. We wanted to take my time and watch the empty beach as the sky gradually changed color, but we planned to take the ferry today and hurried onward to Yamakawa Port, about 5km away, in order to catch the 8:00am boarding.

Check location on map

We boarded the ferry Nankyu from Yamagawa Port on the Satsuma Peninsula, the peninsula surrounding the western side of Kinko Bay, where we had ridden up to this point. The destination is Nejime Fishing Port on the Osumi Peninsula, which is on the east side of Kinko Bay. The ferry boat is equipped with ropes on the deck to secure bicycles. The fare is 1,200 yen one-way, including the bicycle. The boat ride is about an hour on a small boat, and the view of the calm bay and the sea breeze on the deck is a delight as Makise-san shares his memories of cycling on the Okuma Peninsula. We enjoyed the small boat ride, which lasted about an hour.

Check location on map

From the Nejime Fishing Port, ride about 7km through Minami-Osumi Town to the entrance of the Ogawa Falls Trail. The Ogawa Falls, located in the upper reaches of the Ogawa River that flows through this town, is a power spot boasting a width of 60 meters and a drop of 46 meters. It has become even more famous since its appearance in the opening episode of the historical drama "Segodon," and I had made up his mind to visit the falls on this trip. It is about 1.2km from the dedicated parking lot to the observation deck of the waterfall. There is a well-maintained walking trail, and from there it is on foot. After about 30 minutes, we arrived at the waterfall observatory, where we were greeted by a magnificent waterfall. The quiet green surroundings and the sense of unreality brought about by the unapproachable sanctity of the waterfall made us lose track of time. In the morning, it was difficult to take pictures due to backlighting, but in the afternoon, when the weather is nice, the entire basin of the waterfall is said to be emerald green.

Check location on map

I had been feeling pain in my knee since yesterday. We'd ridden this far without much effort, but the pain in my knee was finally getting stronger and I needed to take a break. While looking for a place to take a break, I suddenly spotted a pink door on the beach along Route 269. I wondered, "Could this possibly be a magic door that would take me all the way to the finish line?" A forbidden item that appeared too conveniently in the story. Or have I succumbed to the devil's whispering? I opened the door. Here, on Kamikawa beach is a spot where you can take pictures with the setting sun on the Satsuma Peninsula on the other side of the river. There are also several Kage (=shadow/ silhouette) objet d'art permanently installed to promote the Kinko Town area.

Check location on map

My knee still hadn't fully healed from the beach break, and Makise-san said he would take me to a motorcycle store in a hurry. When we managed to get there, we were surprised to see the inside of the store. The store is a spacious old elementary school gymnasium, and there are spinning bikes all over the place. The store, which offers road bikes as well as running bikes for training, is a highly experienced pro store that also serves as a mechanic for the prestigious Kanoya University of Health and Sport Sciences Cycling Club. I took a break to cool my knee with an ice pack, and the pain eased up.

Check location on map

After a bit of a shakeup from my knee anxiety, I continued along the coastline toward Furue-cho, where we planned to have lunch. The seaside course is a joy to run as the sun gradually rises and the sea turns emerald green. After about 1km, a red torii gate appears out of the blue scenery. At the end of a small promontory that opens out into the sea is Arahira Tenjin, where Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning, is enshrined. It is said that the approach in front of the shrine is covered by the sea at high tide, making it impassable.

Check location on map

From Arahira Tenjin, we headed further north to Furuemachi for a 3km ride. Having come this far today with almost no aid stops, hunger was at its limit. Today's lunch was at Minato Shokudo, a restaurant directly operated by the Kanoya City Fisheries Cooperative Association, which we had been looking forward to since this morning. A viewer had recommended this restaurant to us as a place to eat kampachi (yellowtail) freshly landed at the Kanoya Fisheries Cooperative right next to the diner. When we finally arrived at the restaurant, it was 1:30pm, past peak lunch time, but the restaurant was almost full. The main feature of the set meal here is a gorgeous set that includes kanpachi sashimi, kanpachi head (!) simmered in ara-ni sauce, and kakiage shrimp. The fresh and chewy kanpachi is full of fat and rich in flavor, a perfect reward for having put up with hunger. The sweet miso soup with seafood broth is also an excellent dish that will help your body recover after a long ride.

Check location on map

After leaving the very satisfying restaurant, we rode further north on Route 220 for about 18km before stopping at the parking lot of Tarumi City Fishing Port, which Makise-san recommended. He said there is an unmissable view of Sakurajima from this location. Indeed, the steep shadow of Sakurajima's mountain surface was clearly visible to the naked eye, probably due to the sun's exposure. For some reason, we had not seen any volcanic fumes up to this point, but here we could finally see the smoke rising from the crater. Unlike the green mountains, Sakurajima is an "active volcano" that is constantly changing.

Check location on map

After crossing the Tobashira Shrine, we finally set foot on Sakurajima. We continued along the promenade, which was cut by flowing, cooled, and hardened lava on both sides, to the Arimura Lava Observatory. From here, the southern side of Sakurajima (called Minamidake) spreads out before our eyes, and looking back, we can see the coastline of Tarumi City. I noticed that the area from the foot of the mountain to halfway up the mountain was covered with greenery, but from there to the summit, there was no vegetation at all. According to Makise-san, the forest at the foot of the mountain is "pine trees planted to prevent mudslides caused by rain and other factors." It is a "Sakurajima plantation."

Check location on map

Somehow, before the pain in my knee gets too bad, I arrive at the guesthouse, the final destination for today's ride! The guesthouse, which is rented out to one guest or group a day, was originally a teacher's residence attached to the former Kenshin Elementary School. It has a cozy reinforced concrete exterior, but from the moment you open the door, the entranceway is as cozy as the set of a Showa-era at-home drama. The well-cleaned room layout is perfect, with two bedrooms, a kitchen and living room, and a bath. In contrast to the retro atmosphere, check-in is smart, requiring only a PIN code received in advance by e-mail at the entrance. There are no convenience stores or supermarkets nearby, but you can order drinks (beer, etc.) in advance and they will put them in the refrigerator for you, a non-contact service.

Check location on map

On the recommendation of the guesthouse owner, We went to the natural hot spring at the Sakurajima Seaside Hotel, a 10-minute walk from the inn (500 yen per person for a day trip). We found a separate outdoor mixed bathing bath, separate from the indoor hot spring. The open-air baths are unobstructed by walls or roofs, so you can enjoy a sense of accomplishment as you gaze at the horizon stretching out in front of you.

Check location on map

Back at the guesthouse, we had dinner today. The food was prepared by the facility and grilled on the facility's charcoal stove. The main ingredients are fresh local meat and vegetables, and there is even rice for grilled rice balls. Enjoy the richness of Kagoshima's ingredients, with seafood during the day and meat at night. Cleanup is easy, too. We are very grateful to Makise-san, our reliable support rider, who was able to handle all the irregularities (mostly regarding painful knees) throughout the day. We saw Makise off as he headed home on the ferry to Kagoshima City, and the second day's ride came to a successful conclusion.